You’ll wind your way up the mountain, driving slowly partly because the speed limit (and incline) requires, and partly to take in the views. It’ll feel like drinking from a fire hydrant: a desperate gulping down of the natural beauty gushing off the mountains. Everything is bathed in the kind of light that seems to only come around this time of year; it dances along the treetops and bends through the mid-autumn leaves—perfectly golden, crimson, orange. It’s October in the Hudson Valley and the Catskills are showing off.

Landscape mountain with colorful fall leaves and river — Hunter Mountain in Autumn.

Welcome to Tannersville, NY.

Upon first meeting them in the off-season, both the little village of Tannersville and the larger (albeit only in comparison) town it exists within—Hunter—have a sort of “sleepy mountain town” vibe to them. But there’s something more here: a feeling that another kind of energy bubbles just beneath the surface here; a vibrance. It tugs gently at your sleeve, encouraging you to linger in this place a little longer. Just wait and see what reveals itself…

Where to stay.

Being a ski town, there are plenty of options when it comes to lodging in Tannersville and the surrounding area. That said, if you are the type of traveler who seeks out boutique hotels that are design-forward while also feeling warm and inviting, a stay at Hotel Lilien fits the bill and then some. The recently reimagined 18-room Victorian estate quietly beckons anyone seeking a retreat that both nourishes and inspires. From the woodwork to the stained glass (both elements original to the property’s first iteration, by the way), the work and love that current owners The Lost Boys Hospitality Group and their design partners at Field Theory put into breathing new life into this space while retaining its original charm is evident. Their guests’ experience front-and-center of their decision making; every touchpoint so clearly considered.

One of 18 completely unique rooms at Hotel Lilien.

Where to eat and drink in the Catskills.

Deer Mountain Inn

Another long-standing Tannersville gem, the Deer Mountain Inn was originally built in the 1880s. A maximally ornate yet perfectly cozy inn that could give an Aspen mountain lodge a run for its money in design and vibes, the Deer Mountain Inn has a dining room that’s open to the general public and churns out incredible, inventive dishes.

Greeting you as you step through the bright red front door is a massive deer antler chandelier; because, of course. The lobby is warmly-lit and wood-paneled, giving way to a dining room so filled to the brim with mountain treasures you’ll feel a bit like you’ve stepped into a chic, mountain chalet version of a 90’s-era I Spy book, IRL. The dining room is broken up into several intimate rooms throughout the first floor and while there is plenty of seating, it doesn’t keep. I got away with snagging a stool in the small bar room—a perk of dining alone—but definitely opt for a reservation if you want to ensure your spot, even during the week!

During my visit, I opted for half a dozen oysters with a rhubarb mignonette (!!) and an heirloom tomato salad that still held the punchy, sun-soaked tang of summer. None of which I let linger on the table long enough to sneak a photo, if that tells you anything about how they tasted.

The outdoor patio at the Deer Mountain Inn’s restaurant.

A row of cozy-looking wood cabins in the woods — The “Artist Cabins” at Deer Mountain Inn.

Mama’s Boy Burgers

Stop for lunch at Mama’s Boy Burgers, order from the window, get a burger and a milkshake (I opted for The Mama’s Boy and a chocolate banana shake), and pin this spot to your “favorites” list on Google Maps. This little roadside burger joint served up one of the best burgers I’ve had in a long time and, honestly, there’s not much more that needs to be said than that.

Hotel Lilien

Not only is it a top choice for a place to lay your head, but the food & bev that Hotel Lilien is slinging is nothing to sneeze at. You might not expect to grab a good meal from a hotel kitchen, but the folks at Hotel Lilien are staring that stereotype in the face, handing it miso deviled eggs, an elite fried chicken sandwich, and an espresso martini and waiting for their apology.

And I would be remiss not to mention the continental breakfast (see below) that’s a can’t-miss, should you stay as a guest at the hotel. Yogurt with granola and fresh berries, a hard boiled egg, a warm croissant with cheese and your choice of prosciutto or smoked salmon…have you literally ever heard of such a spread?! In the realm of hotel breakfasts, this was certainly a first for me and yet another indication of the Hotel Lilien team’s commitment to hospitality.

One of a few “living rooms” perfect for lounging in Hotel Lilien.

Fellow Mountain Cafe

And last but absolutely not least, a must-visit for coffee when you’re in town: Fellow Mountain Cafe. An extension of Scribner’s Catskill Lodge down the road, Fellow is a cafe, a bakery, and a sandwich shop all rolled into one bright and beautiful building at the base of Hunter Mountain. Don’t leave without trying their cinnamon roll, at the very least.

What to do in Hunter, NY (when it’s not ski season).

If hiking is your thing, you’re in the right town. Surrounded by the Catskill Mountains, Hunter is a great base for exploring the natural beauty that the region has to offer, no matter the season.

Kaaterskill Falls — the highest cascading waterfall in New York (yes, higher than Niagra!)— rises to the tippy top of the list of beautiful natural wonders in this area. Whether you want a multi-mile jaunt through the woods or just a quick stroll to the waterfall observation deck, Kaaterskill will give you what you’re after.

A two-day trip is nowhere near enough time to really get to know the Catskills, or even the tiny town of Tannersville, so I will be back for another round as soon as possible. If a couple of days is all you have and you need some heavy-hitters for your itinerary, this list should do the trick!